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Then I discovered the CMT USA bit manufacturing instructions that are available at the CMTUSA.com web site under "How To" It is a lot more intuitive, whereas they give you step by step instructions. Each sash is the standard 1 3/8" thick, and has true divided light (French door style sash bars, and mullions) All done by using these two bits. They eliminated all hand holding, and went into mechanical-arithmetic formulas for getting the job done. It is expensive, but worth every dime. I could go on for hours, but this is supposed to be a review of the Freud bits, and it is. This Freud bit set, which is similar to the CMT in every way, except one. That and a little weather-strip and you're set. In addition to Mahogany's natural wear properties (Decks are built from it without any finish put on it whatsoever) You have to look into Sikkens line of semi clear finishes.
This Freud bit combination is making my intentions realizable. This Freud 99-051 and 050 work as a set to give you complete sash making capabilities. I am looking for a good supplier of high quality solid polished brass for the locks and hardware. I bought a book here at Amazon called Windows and Skylights, and it went into a lot about making different style windows. What I am actually going to do, is buy Honduras Mahogany, and make beautiful windows.
That makes for a lot of adjustment in doing the different stages. These bits are not cheap, but if you plan on building lots of windows, and may possibly need to build more than one set, their strong carbide, and balanced, no vibration cut, will give you the quality you are looking for. You could make a casement sash with these bits, and simply build a frame to mount it in, and include the necessary configuring to allow for handles and opening mechanisms. The thing about the CMT set is they are based on 5/8" of an inch spacing on one side, and 1/2" on the other. I made my first window sash and am ecstatic over how professional it looks.
Combining the insulating properties of solid wood, with the natural weather resistance of mahogany, and you have a combination that is hard to beat. The local largest window showroom has suggested that I carry a sample of the Mahogany creations in their showroom. It is nice to not have to sand the edges at all, or at least not very much, when they are as highly figured as these edges are. They are 9/16" on both sides, with 1/4" tongue area in the center. Not about how to buy them, but about how to build them. I am leaning toward the single glass, and then doubling that on the inside with a removable storm panel, and tripling it with an exterior storm window.
My woodworking buying of equipment went into overdrive when I went into my local home center and saw how expensive it would be to replace the windows in my house. Once you see what the truth is about the lack of true insulation properties of the common vinyl window, you will all the more want solid wood windows. I'm honored, and plan on doing that once I am confident in my own houses creations. (That is a popular Pella design) What is significantly different is with typical "insulated glass" windows, you have a vinyl shell, which conducts cold instead of insulating, and then passes that cold through the aluminum wedge that is sealed between the glass, which also transmits cold readily, on through to the inner glass, which is cold on the outer areas, and only warm on the inside center.
I coated my Cedar Addition with it five years ago and it looks as new right now as it did when I first applied it. In that book the author states that using vinyl jamb liners with built in springs are preferred, and will save you a lot of time. I must admit the instructions that come with the Freud bits leaves you a little dizzy. With your own wood windows, you eliminate that.
This bit set also makes twin sashes for your standard double hungs. Highly recommended book, listing suppliers of hardware, and the ins and outs of insulation properties of different styles. Consequently the major window testing association, using a rating system that measures both the center of the glass on the inside, and the outside edges, and averages them. Anyhow, get the Freud bit set, turn out your first sash, and get excited about the possibilities.
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